AS the dancers sashayed down the aisle towards our beachside table, there was a real frisson of excitement.
Alongside the evening’s singer – the very sultry Sandra – they really got the crowd of diners going, clapping and singing along. It was as good as it gets on the Costa del Sol.
“It’s like this most nights in summer,” explained our waiter Joshua, who sounded like he was from Hackney, not Fuengirola, where he was born and bred (albeit to British parents).
“We can have 400 covers at lunch and nearly the same at dinner,” he continued. “That creates a real buzz and guarantees people have fun.”
READ MORE: Why Marbella is Spain’s true fine dining capital: The ultimate guide to its best restaurants
It’s actually quite remarkable how, in just seven years, Max Beach has created such a buzz in an area you’d previously pass in the blink of an eye – and where, a decade ago, you’d need to avoid certain times of night.
The once-scruffy Riviera, plopped between the cachet of Calahonda and lovely La Cala, is now moving up and has something of a swagger. Max Beach has definitely helped.
This extraordinary restaurant is pulling in diners from far and wide, and it’s really no surprise, with the entertainment matching the food.
First and foremost, this is a very good location, overlooking one of the Costa del Sol’s loveliest ‘hidden’ beaches and next to the nearly completed coastal path linking Fuengirola to Marbella.
Best of all, if you have a booking, you’ll get valet parking on arrival and can stroll in without the hassle of finding a space. Even in August.
The menu is a giant trawl of international eats, which is unsurprising when catering for so many people. But don’t be put off.
The starters, for example, are thoughtful and include some unusual dishes such as jerk chicken skewers and crispy chilli-salted squid.
The tacos were described by executive chef Stan Rozbitsyy as ‘famous’, coming with tuna, prawn or wagyu beef. I sneaked into the kitchen to ask the line-up for their opinion, finding Pablo Pelanda, who told me to try the tuna ones.
And yes, spot on – they were delicious.
He’s a German who has previously cooked everywhere from France and Ibiza to China, so I figured he’d know his onions.
My intuition told me to try his lobster croquettes, not something I’ve seen on a menu before and which sounded alarmingly bling.
But hey, jolly jalapeños, they were surprisingly good: creamy and rich, served alongside a lovely herb and lemon allioli.
Pablo also steered me towards the Greek salad from the ‘garden’ section, which included various twists such as ‘compressed’ cucumber and ‘dehydrated’ black olives.
Not sure they are selling points, but certainly no complaints with the taste.
Interlude: Worth a mention was the Portuguese white, Xisto, from the Douro, made by Luis Seabra. At just over €40 a pop it’s not cheap, but worth the extra spend for the quality.
The mains were again varied and interesting, and there’s something for everyone.
Fish-wise, the black cod in miso was incredibly succulent and well cooked, while the fillet of sea bass was a good-looking dish, coming with an amazing orange and green papaya salad. Top tucker.
The brisket of Black Angus beef was slow-cooked for 12 hours and incredibly tender – and comes served with Robuchon truffle mash (that’s Joel Robuchon with a capital ‘R’, fellas; he’s a French legend who once had 32 Michelin stars, no less).
Having once met the great man in Marbella, it was fittingly the best dish.
Puddings were pretty limited and I wasn’t that impressed with ‘I Dropped It’ (an upside-down ice cream cone) with a mix of I’m not sure what.
But the passion fruit cheesecake did the trick.
Saeed, from Tangier, brought them out with a glowing smile, despite the fact it was nearly 30 degrees and he’d been working like a trouper for most of the night.
Maybe he should join the dancing girls in future. For more information, visit www.maxbeach.es.
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