Dilip Kuner
IT was a damp, chilly Saturday with an icy wind whistling down the Benalmadena mountain, making the highly visible cable car – as seen on countless ski slopes – feel actually appropriate for this normally sunny destination.
As my wife and I scurried along the eerily quiet harbour walls of the port our spirits were sinking fast.
And then came the near heart-stopping moment when, huddled against the stiff breeze, we spotted Metro Ristorante Italiano perched entirely outside.
“I should have brought my warmer coat,” exclaimed the missus, not a fan of such chilly nights.
While no doubt idyllic on a warm Spring evening, the terrace was no place to be in this biting wind.
It was with relief that I gently turned my wife around and pointed her towards the actual restaurant a few steps away and we entered the warm and friendly embrace of the busy and bustling eatery.
The simple but classy decor is as far from the ‘classic 1970s trattoria’ – with basket clad bottles adorning the walls – as can be. It’s far more attuned to modern Italian style.
Shown to a table by the friendly and welcoming manager, we settled into some surprisingly comfortable seats and reached for the menus.
There is plenty of choice here, from a good selection of salads – too many to list here – classic pasta dishes with a modern twist, and pizzas from the wood-fired oven.
But, lovers of pasta that we are, we decided to eschew those – delicious though they sounded – for dishes from the grill to see what Italians can do without their traditional staples.
We began our gastronomic adventure with two enticing starters. The Vitello Tonnato showcased tender slices of veal adorned with a creamy tuna sauce that perfectly balanced richness and delicacy.
The combination of the firm but tender veal, accompanied by the flavour of tuna and capers, sun-dried cherry tomatoes, rocket, quails eggs and parmesan, sounded like it might be a little too much with such strong flavours on the plate. But the skilled chefs got the balance absolutely spot on.
Accompanying this was the Crostini Toscano, a delightful medley of flavors featuring toasted bread topped with creamy goat’s cheese, sweet caramelized onions, and fresh pear, all brought together by a tangy balsamic reduction.
For our main courses, we indulged in the Seabass Fillet a la Siciliana and the Beef Tagliata.
The seabass was a testament to the chef’s skill, roasted to perfection and complemented by the bold flavours of black olives and sweet cherry tomatoes.
Served alongside baby potatoes and finished with a signature butter sauce, it was a harmonious dish that celebrated the essence of Sicilian cuisine.
I satisfied my carnivore tendencies by zooming in on the Beef Tagliata, which demonstrated the restaurant’s expertise in meat preparation, similar to their offerings of chargrilled fillet or rib eye.
It was sliced entrecote topped with rocket, parmesan, truffle sauce and cherry tomatoes served with baby potatoes. It gave the beautifully grilled-to-rare-perfection steak a real Italian twist.
Our sweet finale also did not disappoint.
The Italian Mess was a twist on the traditional Eton Mess, combining crisp meringue, juicy strawberries, and whipped cream with smooth vanilla ice cream.
The Classic Tiramisu was executed flawlessly, with coffee-soaked biscuits layered between clouds of creamy mascarpone.
All these courses were served by well trained staff who offered the perfect balance, being attentive without us feeling rushed, allowing us to enjoy each course at a leisurely pace.
As we walked back to the car, fortified against the wind-chill by the hearty meal we had just enjoyed, my wife and I agreed – like the Terminator, ‘we’ll be back’!
https://es.metroristorante.com
Dársena de Levante, Local A20, Benalmádena
+34 952 446 460
Open: 10:30 – 00:00
