ONE of the most beloved breakfasts in Spain is the churro: a crisp, fried dough that is tender on the inside, often served alongside decadent hot chocolate and cafe con leche.

However, despite popular belief, the churro did not originate in Spain or Mexico. In fact, the iconic treat can be traced all the way across the world to China.

Youtiao, a salty, fried pastry originating in China in the 12th century, was created as a means of protest by Hangzhou bakers. The shape was made to represent political traitor, minister Qin Hui.

Also a popular breakfast food, youtiao is often served with soy milk or spicy sauces. Once the technique of frying long portions of dough in hot oil entered Europe, the recipe evolved.

Local cooks adapted the youtiao recipe, substituting sugar for salt and molding the dough into star-shaped ropes, and its popularity continued to grow. In fact, the earliest references to churros in Spain appear in churrerias in Zaragoza.

The churro continues to change and evolve, in Europe and beyond. Today, you can try churros filled with caramel, condensed milk, and chocolate, and find the treat at fairs, cafes, and even gourmet restaurants.

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