‘VISITORS normally dress up when they come out into Altea,’ explains Jose at La Trova, a simple wine bar on the edge of the old town.
The restaurateur, who moved here from Leon seven years ago, spotted something that sets Altea apart from its Costa Blanca neighbours.
Proffering a plate of goat’s cheeses alongside a glass of flinty white wine, he continues: ‘It seems like some sort of rule, but there is definitely a different class of tourist here.’
There is certainly an elegance about this beautiful, whitewashed town, with its famous blue-domed church and artistic heritage, that has somehow retained the cachet it earned back in the 1960s and 70s.
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Back then, Altea was a classic escape for Bohemians and artists, searching for somewhere to set up their easels and embrace a lifestyle a million miles from home in northern Europe or America.
Thankfully, tucked between the jagged peaks of the Sierra de Bernia and the dazzling turquoise Mediterranean, it still moves to a slower, more romantic rhythm.
Sometimes described as one of Spain’s most beautiful towns, Altea has managed to hold on to much of its soul despite its growing popularity.
And it is deceptively large once you work out where the historic heart lies.
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The Casco Antiguo is where you need to head.
You won’t need a map: simply let the maze of cobbled streets and alleyways guide you uphill. Alternatively, park more sensibly on the western outskirts and explore from there.
Every turn offers a new photo opportunity: whitewashed houses framed by cascades of bougainvillea, while fuchsia flowers and palms spill from balconies.
Look out, too, for the sculptures dotted around the town as you make your way towards the Plaza de la Iglesia, its spiritual and geographical heart.
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Here, the magnificent Church of Nuestra Señora del Consuelo finally comes into view, its celebrated blue-and-white tiled domes visible from far along the coast.
Pull up a chair at one of the surrounding bars, order a caña or coffee, and take it all in.
This is a place to linger rather than rush through a checklist of sights.
Altea’s reputation as an artists’ haven becomes apparent as soon as you start browsing, particularly along the streets leading west from the plaza.
This is not your standard collection of souvenir shops selling mass-produced trinkets.
Instead, the narrow lanes are dotted with genuine galleries and small studios where local ceramicists, painters and jewellers produce their work.
It is this creative spirit that gives the old town its distinctive character, particularly as the afternoon slips into evening.
The streets take on a softer glow, artisan stalls appear and the scent of jasmine mingles with the tempting smell of grilled prawns drifting from tucked-away restaurants.
Make a point of seeking out the studio of artists Nuno and Rico, who are often to be found painting late into the night.
The quality of their work is high, while the prices remain refreshingly reasonable.
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And then there are the beaches below.
These are not the sweeping golden sands of nearby Calpe, but that is part of the appeal.
Altea’s shores are largely made up of smooth pebbles, helping to keep the water remarkably clear and lending the coastline a quieter, less commercial feel.
Playa de la Roda is the most central stretch, running alongside the lively Paseo Marítimo and making an ideal starting point for an evening stroll.
For somewhere more peaceful, head north towards Cap Negret and the beach bar Xiringuito El Portet, where an afternoon can easily disappear over a drink with the sea in front of you.
For a different perspective, visit Marina Greenwich, near Altea’s southern coastline.
Promotional material proudly places the marina at the Prime Meridian– a neat geographical talking point, even if the claim needs a little qualification.
Should you tire of the sea, the surrounding landscape offers plenty of reasons to pull on your walking shoes.
The Sierra de Bernia and nearby Serra Gelada Natural Park provide spectacular hiking, from challenging mountain routes to gentler coastal walks.
One particularly rewarding option is the trail to the Faro de l’Albir lighthouse, just along the coast, where dramatic views open up across the Mediterranean.
It is a reminder that Altea’s appeal extends well beyond its postcard-perfect old town.
TOP TIP
Visit on a Tuesday and make time for Altea’s bustling market.
From fresh oranges and olives to ceramics and handmade crafts, it offers a colourful slice of everyday local life – and a good opportunity to pick up something more authentic than the usual holiday souvenir.
WHERE TO EAT
For dinner, head to Xe Que Bo, an unpretentious gastrobar where the cooking and wine list are every bit as appealing as the prices.
Sitting just outside the main tourist drag helps keep things refreshingly local.
There are more than three dozen wines available by the glass, making it an excellent place to try something new without committing to a whole bottle.
The scallops are a highlight, as is the tomato salad.
It is precisely the sort of find that makes exploring beyond the obvious tourist spots worthwhile.
DON’T MISS
It is easily one of the quirkiest bars on the Costa Blanca.
Over three floors at La Mascarada you will find one of the largest collections of masks in Spain.
Open since 1986 this is the brainchild of German owner Kurt, who claims to have sailed over 120,000 miles around the globe with his boat Nicole, collecting amazing masks on every trip.
Make sure to grab a cocktail or beer and marvel at the amazing exotic collection inside.
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