HIDDEN CORNERS: Michael Coy continues his series about some of the lesser known spots in Spain, this time in Écija

THE attractive town of Écija is situated on the main road which links Sevilla and Córdoba, about half-way (50 miles) from either city.

It stands on the banks of the Geníl River, so beloved of the poet Lorca. The Geníl rises in the Sierra Nevada, and wends its way to the flood plain of the Guadalquivir, as Lorca puts it, ‘from the snow to the wheat’.

Écija, in summer, is not for the faint-hearted. It’s very hot. July and August temperatures regularly reach 46 degrees centigrade (116 Fahrenheit)
and even Andalucians find it oppressive.

Écija is known throughout southern Spain as ‘the frying-pan’.

The economy of Écija is based on agriculture (olives, cereals and vegetables), cattle (cows and horses) and the textile industry.

The most distinctive feature of the urban landscape of Écija are the city’s Baroque bell towers.

In Roman times the town was at first known as Astigi. During the Roman civil war Écija stood ‘firmly’ at the side of Julius Caesar in the Battle of Munda.

According to Pliny the Elder and Pomponius Mela, who both wrote in the 1st century AD, it was the rival of Córdoba and Sevilla.

In 711, Écija was conquered by an Islamic army on its way to Córdoba, meeting strong opposition from the population, who offered a 6-month-long resistance before capitulating.

Due to its productive agricultural systems and therefore able to sustain several harvests a year, Écija served as a food provider for both Córdoba and Sevilla.

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The city walls were demolished in the early 10th century as punishment for the local support to the rebellion against Umayyad rule led by Umar ibn Hafsun.

The place was seized by Christians on 3 May 1240.

The Jewish population of Écija apparently suffered the antisemitic revolt initiated after the assault on the jewry of Sevilla in June 1391, that spread across Andalucía and much of the Iberian Peninsula.

The effects of the 1755 earthquake (the one that devastated Lisbon) forced a profound urban renewal in Écija.

Although Astigi was one of the most complete Roman cities to have been discovered, the city council decided in 1998 to bulldoze Écija’s Roman ruins, including ‘a well-preserved Roman forum, bath house, gymnasium and temple as well as dozens of private homes and hundreds of mosaics and statues’ and replace them with a 300-slot car park.

The most important church is the Convento de la Santísima Trinidad y Purísima Concepción (Convent of the Holy Trinity and Immaculate Conception).

It is governed by the Franciscan Conceptionists.

Popularly known as Marroquies, it is located a few metres from the Iglesia de la Limpia Concepción de Nuestra Señora. In 1582, the Marroquí sisters, Luisa, Catalina, Ana and Francisca, descendants of one of the oldest families of Ecija, decided to found a monastery of nuns.

The blessing of the new church and convent complex occurred on May 21, 1596. It was declared a cultural site on November 17, 2009. The simple structure contains its original angular belfry and a collection of paintings, altarpieces, sculptures, and jewellery, featuring Moorish and Andalusian Baroque art.

If you’re thinking of overnighting in Écija (a pleasant interlude between Sevilla and Córdoba, if you’re sight-seeing), you could do a lot worse than stay at the Hotel Casa Palacio Domus Astigi.

It’s very central, it has the classic ‘patio Andalúz’ floor plan, and a couple sharing a room will pay no more than €70 per night (April prices).

The restaurant ‘Cien Vinos’ (One Hundred Wines) can be found in the Avenida Miguel de Cervantes. Its owners, Carmen and Manuel, insist on serving unique dishes with their personal ‘stamp’ on them.

Anything from a quick tapa to a sit-down meal is possible, every day of the week (early closing on Sunday).

From the terrace menu (they have separate lists for distinct sections of the house) we recommend ‘Lacoste of Acorn-Fed Pork’ from €12-18.

The very best pork in Andalucía comes from animals fed on acorns. The subtle flavour of the ‘bellotas’ impregnates the flesh, giving it a sumptuous taste.

As for wine, we think the restaurant’s name speaks for itself!