18 May, 2025 @ 11:53
2 mins read

Top Spanish chefs blame ‘lack of education’ for alarming obesity among Spain’s youngsters

Paco Manzano And Oscar Molino With Chefs For Children

IT has ‘never been more important’ to teach children to cook.

This is the view of the ‘Godfather of Spanish cuisine’, Pedro Subijana.

The celebrated three Michelin star chef, from San Sebastian, told the Olive Press, Spain risks losing its cherished Mediterranean diet if youngsters aren’t taught to ‘eat healthier’.

“It is not just up to parents to explain healthy dietary habits, the government should be making it compulsory for classes at primary school,” insisted Subijana.

“We need to teach them as youngsters. They need to learn about the big health problems that exist. Obesity is a huge problem in Spain and it is getting worse.”

Pedro Subijana (left) with Jon Clarke

His message comes after it emerged, Spain has one of the worst obesity rates in Europe, with 40% of children being overweight or obese, a figure which has doubled in two decades.

He was speaking at a Chefs for Children charity event in Benahavis, where 150 youngsters with diabetes were taught how to cook from 44 of Spain’s leading chefs.

To remedy the problem, the 76-year-old behind Akelarre restaurant insists we need to protect the culture of the Mediterranean diet, the importance of fish, fresh vegetables, olive oil and pulses.

“We often have youngsters coming into our restaurant to learn and events like this are a brilliant way to encourage and spread the message,” continued Subijana.

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His words were backed up meanwhile by another celebrated chef Jesus Sanchez, of Cantabria’s famous Cenador de Amos restaurant.

“We have simply forgotten the roots of Spanish cuisine and it’s very worrying,” said the three Michelin star talent.

“There is far too much Asiatic and fusion cooking and we need to get back to the Mediterranean diet.

“It’s a scandal that we are not eating more fish. Salmon, sea bass and sardines are so good for us. The benefits are enormous.

“I would like to see more government help in supporting young chefs who are going back to their roots. I really hope those in Madrid hear us”.

Pilar Candil, organizer of the event, now in its seventh year, said: “It was particularly great to work with kids with Type 1 diabetes this year as more than anyone they need to know how to eat well.

“I think we are now getting over the message that eating healthily can and should be fun.”

PEDRO SUBIJANA: Four decades with two stars or more

Pedro Subijana has cooked in his kitchen at Akelarre restaurant in San Sebastian for 50 years.

“And I’ve had three Michelin stars for 18 years now and had two stars for 25 years before that,” he told the Olive Press.

“I love coming in to cook and we have lots of young chefs who come up with new ideas and formulas every day and I am the lucky one who gets to try them and develop them,” he added.

JESUS SANCHEZ: I love the exciting growth in Andalucia

“It’s great that so many new restaurants are opening in Sevilla, Jaen and Cordoba,” insists three Michelin masterchef Pedro Sanchez, from three Michelin star joint Cenador de Amos.

Jesus Sanchez

“There are so many small, independent private initiatives opening up all the time. The talent has truly come south.”

And he should know, having begun his glittering career at Taberna del Alabardero in Puerto Banus.

“I love the amazing evolution here, in particular in Malaga, with Jose Carlos Garcia and Benito at Bardal, in Ronda, where I ate last night. 

“I really think Benito or Marcos at Skina will win a third star in November. Maybe both of them.”

Jon Clarke (Publisher & Editor)

Jon Clarke is a Londoner who worked at the Daily Mail and Mail on Sunday as an investigative journalist before moving to Spain in 2003 where he helped set up the Olive Press.

After studying Geography at Manchester University he fell in love with Spain during a two-year stint teaching English in Madrid.

On returning to London, he studied journalism and landed his first job at the weekly Informer newspaper in Teddington, covering hundreds of stories in areas including Hounslow, Richmond and Harrow.

This led on to work at the Sunday Telegraph, Sunday Mirror, Standard and even the Sun, before he landed his first full time job at the Daily Mail.

After a year on the Newsdesk he worked as a Showbiz correspondent covering mostly music, including the rise of the Spice Girls, the rivalry between Oasis and Blur and interviewed many famous musicians such as Joe Strummer and Ray Manzarak, as well as Peter Gabriel and Bjorn from Abba on his own private island.

After a year as the News Editor at the UK’s largest-selling magazine Now, he returned to work as an investigative journalist in Features at the Mail on Sunday.

As well as tracking down Jimi Hendrix’ sole living heir in Sweden, while there he also helped lead the initial investigation into Prince Andrew’s seedy links to Jeffrey Epstein during three trips to America.

He had dozens of exclusive stories, while his travel writing took him to Jamaica, Brazil and Belarus.

He is the author of three books; Costa Killer, Dining Secrets of Andalucia and My Search for Madeleine.

Contact jon@theolivepress.es

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