So you know the Costas like the back of your hand? You’ve ticked off the top cities to visit across Spain, from Valencia to Seville? You’ve eaten your way round San Sebastian and toured the vineyards of Ribiera. Yet there is still so much of Spain to explore. Fiona Govan shares her favourite destinations far away from the tourist crowds, where it is still possible to find the authentic Spain.
We’ve seen the headlines about how tourists are not welcome, you may even have been caught up in the crowds spilling off a cruise ship in Mallorca, Malaga or Barcelona. Yet there is still so much of Spain that gets left off the tourist trail – according to Spain’s tourist board 80 percent of visitors are concentrated on the islands and Mediterranean coast – which leaves a whole lot of the country ripe for discovery.
Ancient Extremadura
WIth no coastline and no high speed train access, it’s easy to see why Extremadura tends to be overlooked by tourists. It remains one of the least visited regions of Spain despite having three Unesco World Heritage Sites (Merida, Caceres and Guadelupe), a National Park that is haven for migrating birds (Monfrague) and arguably the best preserved Roman ruins outside of Italy. In springtime head to Jerte for its valleys full of cherry blossom. In May, visit Trujillo, a town built by returning Conquistadors, for the cheese festival and theatre lovers should put Merida on their list for July when the ancient Roman theatre hosts nightly performances of classics from Seneca to Shakespeare.
The city of Caceres is a gourmand’s dream boasting the Three-Michelin-starred Atrio as well as a cluster of taperias within its Medieval walls offering the very best in locally grown produce. Among the dehessa you’ll see the Iberian pigs fattening themselves up on acorns to produce some of the nation’s very best jamon.
There are few places more romantic to wake up in than the Parador in Guadalupe, a former convent dating from the 15th century.
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Hiking Spain’s green northern coast
Everyone’s heard of the Camino de Santiago and so it can get a bit overcrowded depending on the route and time of year. But head off away from the pilgrimage route and you’ll find there are plenty of other well marked out routes to choose from.
Seven new hiking trails have been added to Galicia’s Senderos Azules, a network of walking paths through Spain’s northwestern region. These include circular routes linking towns where walkers can easily find accommodation. Enjoy outstanding views over the rugged Atlantic coast and discover hidden coves, fishing villages and stretches of sandy beaches. Or embrace the tranquility of inland trails running through ancient woodland or alongside river banks through the provinces of A Coruña and Pontevedra. Stop off in towns such as Betanzos, famous for its tortilla or try the bizarre looking delicacy of percebes (goose barnacles) harvested by brave fishermen from rocky outcrops pounded by surf.
The wild island paradise of El Hierro
Visiting the Canary Islands doesn’t necessarily mean all-inclusive hotels and mass tourism. El Hierro, the smallest and most westerly of the Canary Islands has no direct flights from outside the archipelago meaning only the most intrepid travellers will find their way there. It claims to be entirely energy efficient and its focus is sustainability making it a clear choice for the ethical traveller.
It is home to both dense leafy rainforests and otherworldly volcanic terrain with black shingle beaches and stretches of pure white sand and attracts those who want to spend their holiday on outdoor pursuits such as hiking, mountain biking and scuba diving in some of the most pristine waters in Europe.
With a local population of just 11,000 residents, there are no big urbanisations here in contrast to neighbouring islands of Tenerife, Gran Canaria and Lanzarote. Latest figures showed that annual visitors amount to just over 20,000 compared to the more than 6 million who visited Tenerife last year alone.
Teruel Exists!
If you really want to get away from the crowds and feel like the only tourist in town then find your way to the province of Teruel in eastern Spain.
Because it is poorly served by public transport, you’ll likely have to drive yourself – 2.5 hours south of Barcelona or two hours inland from Valencia – but with a car you can explore an area dotted with ruined castles and picturesque walled towns built in the Mudejar style.
This land is the biggest producer of black truffle in Europe and the pungent flavour elevates local dishes from starter to dessert. Get lost in the winding cobbled lanes of Albarracin, a Medieval town clinging to a rocky outcrop above the Guadalavir river.
This is some of the most dramatic landscapes in Spain where you’ll find dinosaur tracks and wild swimming spots and you’ll be welcomed wholeheartedly by locals grateful that you have made the effort to discover their forgotten corner of Spain.
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Hidden gems of Ubeda and Baeza
Two towns you’ve probably never heard of in Andalusia are hidden gems that are well worth the visit.
Tucked away in the Jaen province among the seemingly endless olive groves are Ubeda and Baeza, both beautifully preserved walled towns that will reward visitors with their ornate Renaissance architecture.
Just 15km from each other, the towns both have Unesco World Heritage status, but are usually skipped over in favour of Seville, Granada and Cordoba. Wander the cobbled streets and picturesque plazas and visit workshops where pottery, leathergoods and olive oil products are sold. In Ubeda descend into what is thought to be one of Spain’s oldest synagogues – and an old mikvah that was discovered during renovations of an old townhouse.
In Baeza, alongside the cathedral and palaces you’ll find the Olive Culture Museum dedicated to educating visitors about the crop that stretches as far as the eye can see in this corner of Spain.
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