25 Jan, 2026 @ 13:30
4 mins read

36 hours in Segovia: Ancient wonders, Medieval charm and Castillian traditions

Segovia. The Roman Aqueduct.
Segovia. The Roman Aqueduct. CREDIT: Fiona Govan

Segovia is the sort of place that takes your breath away – with its iconic Roman aqueduct, impressive gothic cathedral and fairy tale castle all set within a dramatic landscape.ย  Itโ€™s a small city rising out of the Castillian plains north of Madrid that is steeped in history, yet compact enough to wander around all the monuments and discover its treasures in an overnight stay. Hereโ€™s how to spend 36 hours in the Unesco World Heritage city of Segovia.

Day One: Ancient Wonders

Arriving in Segovia mid- morning, the first thing to greet you will be the Roman Aqueduct dominating the main square in the lower part of town. It doesnโ€™t matter how many pictures you have seen of this structure, it demands that you stand beneath it, and marvel at its splendour. Built in the late first century, it spans 16,220metres at a height of 28 metres at its centre. Constructed of unmortared grey granite blocks, the two tiers of arches carried water from the Rio Frio in the mountains 15km away to supply fountains and cisterns within the city walls.   

Itโ€™s impressive from its base as well as from the viewpoints above, and changes throughout the day as the shadows cast by the ancient pillars and arches lengthen across  Plaza del Azoguejo. Wind your way up Calle Real, towards the Plaza Mayor and youโ€™ll walk past shops and honey coloured stone mansions including the impressive Casa de los Picos, with its impressive diamond patterned facade dating from the 15th century. Stop at the free contemporary art exhibition held within.

Casa de los Picos, Segovia by Pedro Mena / Flickr

Grab lunch nearby to ease into Segovian cuisine. Many restaurants around the aqueduct offer menรบ del dรญa, a fixed-price lunch thatโ€™s both affordable and filling. Donโ€™t miss trying the judiones de la Granja – locally grown fat butter beans served in a rich sauce.

Spend the afternoon in the Gothic Cathedral of Segovia, often called โ€œThe Lady of Cathedralsโ€ for its elegance. Step inside to admire soaring vaults and intricate stained glass. Watch the shadows dance within the cloister or climb the bell tower for spectacular views over the terracotta rooftops to the distant mountains.

Segovia’s Gothic Cathedral. Photo by Fiona Govan

As the afternoon light softens, make your way to the Alcรกzar of Segovia. Perched dramatically on a rocky outcrop, locals claim this castle inspired Walt Disneyโ€™s Cinderella castle, although it wouldnโ€™t look out of place in a fairytale, there no evidence to suggest this is actually true. Take a tour inside, then climb the Tower of Juan II for panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. 

Segovia’s Alcazar. Photo by Fiona Govan

Dinner is an opportunity to feast on local speciality roast suckling piglet – cochinillo asado – so seek out one of the historic inns. My favourite isย El Mesรณn de Cรกndido, a family run restaurant with photos of illustrious diners decorating the walls, where the cochinillo is theatrically carved with the edge of a plate.ย 

End your evening with a quiet walk back toward the aqueduct, which is beautifully lit at night or find a spot to enjoy the stars.

View of Segovia by Fiona Govan

Day Two:Hidden Corners

Start your second day with a relaxed breakfast at a local cafรฉโ€”coffee, fresh orange juice, and a slice of tortilla espaรฑola or tostada with tomato and olive oil. 

Spend the early hours strolling around the narrow alleys of the Jewish Quarter, one of the cityโ€™s most atmospheric areas. Its winding streets lead to peaceful corners, small plazas, and the former Main Synagogue, now the Corpus Christi Convent. 

Late morning is perfect for a visit to the city walls. Walking along sections of the medieval fortifications gives you a tangible sense of Segoviaโ€™s strategic importance and offers lovely views back toward the Alcรกzar. From here, descend toward the Eresma River valley for a change of perspective. The walk reveals lush greenery and postcard-worthy angles of the castle rising above you.

Segovia has a stunning view round every corner. By Fiona Govan

For lunch, bring a picnic and climb a hill opposite the city. Or head back to the centre and find a table outside and opt for a light bite – perhaps a salad topped with local cheese or a plate of croquetas – before squeezing in one final cultural stop. The Esteban Vicente Museum of Contemporary Art, housed in a beautiful historic palace, is a surprising and rewarding contrast to the cityโ€™s ancient bones.

Before departing, allow time for one last wander. Pick up local treats like ponche segoviano, a traditional layered cake, from pastelerรญa to take home.

Donโ€™t miss:

If you are in Segovia over a weekend, The monastery of El Parral holds a mass in Gregorian chant every Sunday at midday.

September sees the city host the Hay Festival Segovia, which brings together world-renowned authors, thinkers, journalists, and artists for debates, workshops, and performances.

Getting there: 

Just 100 km northwest of Madrid, itโ€™s about an 1hr and 15 minute drive the capital or a 30min hop from Chamartin station on the high-speed train. If coming by AVE youโ€™ll arrive at the station located 7km outside the city. Catch the city bus which drops you off right by the viaduct or if you canโ€™t bear to wait, then thereโ€™s usually a line of local taxis outside.

Where to stay: 

To be right in the centre of it all and awake to the ringing bells of the cathedral, try Hotel Infanta Isabel right in the Plaza Mayor.

For the best views of the city and the Alcazar, choose the Parador, which is a modern building offering an unrivalled panorama of Segovia itself. In the summer months you can retreat here and enjoy the openair pool.

READ MORE:

Click here to read more Olive Press Travel News from The Olive Press.

Fiona Govan is Chief Travel Writer at The Olive Press bringing readers news and views from all corners of the Iberian Peninsula. She moved to Spain in 2006 to be The Daily Telegraphโ€™s Madrid correspondent and then worked for six years as Editor of The Local Spain before joining the OP in 2021 as Digital Editor. She lives in Malasaรฑa in Madrid.

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