Michael Coy
TO many of us, Málaga city is nothing special – the airport is out there somewhere, and the centre lacks the old-world charm of Sevilla or Córdoba. However, such a view is mistaken: Málaga has plenty to offer, if you know where to look, and we’re not even going to mention Picasso!
There are some fortunate cities in Spain which can proudly boast having a Parador: well, Málaga has two!
Paradores are state-run hotels, usually located in buildings of historical or topographical interest, and usually of 4-star quality. There are 96 of them throughout Spain, and allcomers are welcome – you don’t need to be a resident to use the bar or restaurant.
The Parador de Gibralfaro is situated at the top of Málaga’s original lookout hill, and it still today offers spectacular views out over the Mediterranean. If you are greeting new arrivals, or seeing friends off, don’t waste those precious hours at the airport – bring them here for a relaxing drink in splendid surroundings.
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As for the Parador de Golf in Torremolinos, even closer to the airport, what can be said, other than it has a modern, beach-style feel and an excellent restaurant? You don’t need to have any association at all with golf.
When the King of Spain is in Málaga, he stays here. You can ask to book the royal room, if you want!
Did you know that Málaga was an ancient Roman town? The amphitheatre has survived (it wasn’t discovered until 1951) and is open to the public (closed Mondays). You’ll find it in the calle Alcazabilla, very central, at the foot of the Gibralfaro outcrop.
Are you partial to a glass of sherry? Then come with us to the Antigua Casa de Guardia, tucked away in a narrow alley just off the Alameda Principal. This place is the real deal – a wide selection of sherries and fortified Andalucían wines are available on draft, plates of shrimps, cheese if you’re peckish – and the waiter keeps your tab by chalking the prices on the surface of the counter!
Various towns in southern Spain have superb markets, with their riots of colour, fragrances and salty humour – but not many are located, as in Málaga, in a former Arabic boatyard! If you haven’t already visited the Atarazanas Market, you’ve got a treat in store! Now safely inland, when it was built 800 years ago, Atarazanas was at the sea’s edge.
After the Christians captured Málaga in 1487, the boatyard underwent a variety of uses – convent, hospital – as land was gradually reclaimed from the Mediterranean, until in the mid-20th century it became the city’s fruit, fish and meat market. A stained-glass window (1973) recalls the relationship between the market and the not-too-distant sea.
If you’re overnighting in Málaga and you fancy seeing a flamenco performance, you could do a lot worse than pay a visit to Vino Mio, a small restaurant to the left of the Cervantes Theatre in Plaza Jerónimo Cuervo.
A small group of enthusiasts puts on an intimate show each evening, Wednesday to Sunday, usually starting at about 8:30pm. There is no table charge (contrary to the spirit of true flamenco, a lot of Málaga bars will ask you to pay 25 euros simply for being there!), but if you come for the flamenco, you will be expected to eat and drink.
This place is not a tourist spectacular kind of joint – it’s ‘bijou’, but the young artists are serious about what they do, and you will probably see some dancing. We could easily have written a second article, without exhausting Málaga’s delights – and we still haven’t mentioned Picasso!
