‘WOW, I’m eating at a campsite.’
Yes, really. But this is no campfire-and-folding-chairs affair. It’s a full-blown, formal sit-down restaurant… and it’s open all day.
Set in Granada’s hinterland, well off the tourist trail, Asador de la Reina’s the sort of place you’ll only find if someone tips you off. And it’s well worth seeking out – particularly if you’re heading up for a ski in the Sierra Nevada.
By 4pm on a Thursday the place is humming, nudging close to 100 diners. There’s a genuine sense of occasion.
Within two minutes of sitting down I’m presented with a bowl of local olives in a lightly curried dressing, a hefty hunk of bread and two bowls of fresh picual olive oil.
An unexpected amuse-bouche – foie served in a tiny cup – follows swiftly.
Service is brisk and tightly choreographed. There’s a clear pecking order: managers in black, chefs in grey, apart from one in what can only be described as a near-clownish outfit. He turns out to be one of the partners.
The asador has been around for over a century, but three years ago it was taken over by a local family and two partners, including that flamboyantly dressed chef.
They’ve struck a careful balance – preserving original floors and charming old window grilles – while creating a slick, modern operation.
READ MORE: IN PICS: The full revelries from the Costa del Sol’s biggest St Patrick’s Day parade and party
The menu is reassuringly traditional without being overwhelming. Grilled meats are the headline act, naturally – this is an asador after all – including a 1.2kg Galician Wagyu chuletón for the seriously hungry.
Starters range from pheasant pâté and courgette carpaccio with parmesan to three soups (I ignored the advice to choose onion and went for pumpkin with curry).
There are hearty hot options too: mushrooms, spinach with dried fruits, stuffed piquillo peppers with cod and prawn, and a pastela de la Reina – effectively a very good tuna empanada.
The pumpkin soup arrives looking magnificent – swirls of cream, crisp croutons – and tastes even better. Rich, warming and perfect for a winter’s day, lifted by good olive oil and a subtle hint of orange.
My solomillo is beautifully cooked in the restaurant’s ancient wood-fired oven – which I’m proudly shown by all three partners – and arrives exactly as ordered.
But the real showstopper? The wine list.
It lands on the table with a thud, reminiscent of the old This Is Your Life red book. Nearly 700 bottles are listed. It’s theatrical (perhaps unnecessarily weighty) but the message is clear.
“It’s the second-best wine list in Granada province,” explains sommelier Miguel Pérez. “The best is at our sister restaurant, Taberna La Tana, in the city, with over 2,000 references there.”
I’ve eaten at La Tana. It may boast more bottles, but this feels the more complete dining experience.
Here, you’ll find obscure Spanish regions such as Valdejalón in Aragón alongside an extraordinary French selection. Burgundy dominates, with serious gems – including Santenay Les Prarons Dessus 2020 from Domaine Bachelot-Monnot.
The list follows the classic French format: producer first, then village, then cuvée and vintage.
And while it sounds lofty, most bottles sit comfortably between €50 and €77 – impressive value for top-tier French wine. Though if you’re tempted by the Morey-Saint-Denis 2021 from Lignier, be prepared to part with €110.
In the end, it was all academic for me. With a three-hour drive back to the coast, I stuck firmly to water. Next time? I might just book a pitch at the campsite.
Click here to read more Food & Drink News from The Olive Press.
