AUTHENTICITY doesn’t come easily – especially within the manicured confines of a five-star hotel.
Taking the rustic soul of Malaga’s most famous institution, El Pimpi, and transplanting it into Marbella’s glitzy Puente Romano was a bold move last year.
However, it arrived with a distinct advantage: co-owner Antonio Banderas.
With his Hollywood address book, it wasn’t long before pals like Robert de Niro and Will Smith were popping in for dinner – the latter even treated to a private flamenco dance.
But El Pimpi offers more than just star power; it offers pedigree. With a half-century of history in Malaga and a sister venue, Bodegas Campos, serving Cordoba since 1908, this is Grand Cru Andaluz at its finest.
Having frequented both joints for decades, I’ll admit I was skeptical. Bodegas Campos earned a spot in my book, Dining Secrets of Andalucia, and the original El Pimpi was our go-to sherry haunt when we had an attic in Malaga’s casco historico 20 years ago. Could that soul survive the jump to the Golden Mile?
READ MORE: Sabine Marbella: The Ibiza-style restaurant everyone will be booking this summer
I entered El Pimpi Marbella with mixed expectations – but I was soon at ease. Stepping inside, the transition feels surprisingly seamless.
The signature wall of sherry barrels is there – including those signed by De Niro and Smith – alongside a collection of antique feria posters.
Notably, and perhaps cleverly for a modern international crowd, there isn’t a hint of bullfighting on any of them.
The name El Pimpi hails from a local legend; a Malagueño who greeted tourists at Malaga’s port and promised to show them the best of the old town.
His nickname reflects the authenticity of the experience: everything from the delectable thin slices of Jamon Iberico de Bellota to the local flamenco troupe, Saraos El Pimpi, authentic to the core, right down to the polka dots on the dancers’ skirts.
The Experience
Settle into a comfortable banquette and dive into the cocktail menu, cleverly designed as a newspaper. It features rip-snorters like the Vermut Mestizo, a potent blend of vermouth and Moscatel orange wine with a smoky mezcal kick.
The food menu remains refreshingly simple. It hits the Spanish classics – gazpacho, croquettes, and artisan cheeses – without over-complicating them.
READ MORE: Tapas and liquid gold: Andalucia’s hidden gem of Jaen
We started with the Ajo Blanco, the traditional cold almond and garlic soup. It is a notoriously difficult dish to balance, but here the consistency was tip-top, elevated by a surprising passion fruit sorbet and sunflower seeds for crunch.
The seafood followed suit: spring-fresh clams and perfectly peeled prawns, alongside a perky avocado salad oozing with local flavour.
For the main event, the Presa Iberica pork was as succulent a cut as one could hope for.
The Verdict
Save room for the Torrija (especially around Easter), best washed down with a glass of the house ‘Malaga Virgin’ Moscatel.
If you’re looking to push the boat out, the wine list is extensive, featuring gems like the great-value Cloe Chardonnay from Ronda.
As expected for a five-star resort, the service is exceptional. Staff members like Laura from Marbella and her Lisbon-born manager provide intelligent, amusing advice in perfect English.
The secret here is simplicity and the uncompromising quality of local ingredients.
It’s hard to give this ‘baby sister’ any fewer stars than the hotel that houses it.
Click here to read more Food & Drink News from The Olive Press.
