The melting pot begins to simmer as Estepona’s international food scene takes shape, writes Jon Clarke.
THEY all grew up together on the small Greek island of Zakynthos, a tourist hotspot with a population of around 40,000.
So it is something of a coincidence that Alex, Metis and Ernest have all ended up working in restaurants in Estepona.
Each brings solid experience.
Ernest trained for two years at a hotel management school in Athens, while Alex and Métis built their careers in the Radisson hotel chain and in Greek restaurants in the UK.
Ernest also spent time managing several restaurants at the five-star Ikos resort nearby.
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“I fell in love with Spain, and particularly Estepona, while working there,” he says.
Now he and his wife Sylvia, who is also Greek, have opened Lorenzo’s Trattoria.
Despite the name, this is not a traditional Italian in the usual sense, but a more contemporary take on the cuisine, with a varied menu and a clear focus on quality.
“We spend 48 hours preparing the dough using five types of flour, and we’ve brought in a specialist oven from Naples,” Ernest explains.
The result is a strong pizza offering.
The ‘Mortazza’, topped with buffalo mozzarella, mortadella and pistachio paste, stands out for both flavour and balance.
There are also thoughtful details, such as serving the pizzas with scissors for cutting.
Starters are equally considered. The Arancino Monte Etna – saffron risotto balls with Taleggio cheese – is visually striking, designed to resemble the famous volcano, and delivers on taste.
A beef carpaccio comes topped with Parmesan, rocket, mustard, garlic oil and truffle sauce, finished with cured egg yolk that has been prepared over several days.
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Pasta dishes include tagliatelle with hazelnut and basil pesto, purple potato gnocchi with gorgonzola cream, and rigatoni with fennel sausage and crispy guanciale.
A short walk away, Alex runs Brizola, a Greek restaurant tucked into a quieter back street.
The name means “chop” in Greek, and the menu leans towards traditional dishes, with a selection of dips, salads and sharing plates.
The mixed dips offer good value, allowing diners to choose from options such as melitzanosalata and tirokafteri.
A seafood salad combines prawns, octopus, peppers and herbs, while main courses include staples like kleftico, stifado and slow-cooked beef with orzo.
The moussaka is a highlight, served in its own dish with generous layers of aubergine and potato.
Desserts include a homemade cheesecake prepared by Alex’s mother, who works in the kitchen, and portokalopita, a filo pastry cake with orange zest.
One of the more unexpected arrivals in Estepona over the past year is Bada, located on Calle Caridad.
The restaurant stands out for its character, with décor that reflects the travels of its owner, Charles, and his family.
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At 26, Charles has taken an unconventional route.
Born in the UK and raised in New York and Miami, with Moroccan and Brazilian roots, he initially worked in banking before spending time surfing in Portugal during the pandemic.
He later moved into kitchens, working at Orasay in London and the Barrel Project in Bermondsey, before relocating to Spain.
His background is reflected in a menu that draws on international influences, particularly from the Middle East.
Dishes include beef kefta with Moroccan spices, and a selection of dips such as muhammara, made with red pepper, chilli, tahini and sumac.
Other options range from grilled potato bread with whipped cod’s roe to brioche toast with brie, pear compote and caramelised onions.
Sardines are served with crème fraîche and dill.
Daily specials add further variety.
A bluefin tuna sashimi with passion fruit ‘kosho’ offers a fresh, citrus-led flavour, while salmon fishcakes are served simply with spinach and herbs.
A fried chicken mini burger, inspired by southern US cooking, is a more indulgent option.
Bada is not a light dining experience, but it provides something different and reflects the increasingly varied tastes of visitors and residents alike.
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For those looking beyond Mediterranean flavours, Estepona is also beginning to expand its Asian offering.
Takeko is a recent addition, with a menu that includes sushi and ramen, underlining how much the town’s dining scene has evolved in recent decades.
Among the more established venues, Casa del Rey remains a reliable choice, particularly for wine enthusiasts.
Located just off Plaza de los Flores, it offers more than 100 wines by the glass in a stylish setting.
It is run by Liliana, a Dutch expat with over 20 years’ experience in the area.
Nearby, in Plaza Ortiz, Sur provides an Argentinian alternative.
Owner Juan runs a hands-on kitchen, often with the help of family members.
The menu includes empanadas and slow-cooked meats, with a focus on robust, traditional flavours.
For seafood, El Pescador and La Rada continue to be two of the town’s best-known options, both specialising in fresh fish and maintaining long-standing reputations.
Finally, the recently opened Santa Ana Gourmet market, located near the castle, is helping to reinforce Estepona’s growing reputation as a food destination.
With a focus on quality produce – including fish, meats and wines – it offers a relaxed space to visit throughout the day and into the evening.
Taken together, these openings and established names point to a town whose culinary scene is steadily diversifying.
Once known primarily for simple coastal fare, Estepona is increasingly reflecting a broader mix of international influences – a trend that shows no sign of slowing.
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