TAKE a trip to this small Andalucian capital with free bar snacks and four Michelin-starred restaurants surrounded by a sea of olives.
Welcome to Jaen, one of southern Spain’s best-kept secrets.
While nearby Granada and Cordoba pull in the crowds, this compact city rewards those who prefer a more unpolished and authentic Andalucia.
Endless views begin at the hilltop Santa Catalina Castle, with the largest concentration of olive groves stretching out as far as the eye can see.
The setting alone explains why Jaen is known for producing some of the world’s finest olive oil, dating back to the period of Moors.
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Olive oil is renowned as the town’s ‘liquid gold’.
Down in the old town, history hits hard.
You can feel the variation of civilisations that have layered Jaen for thousands of years, such as the Iberians, Romans, Arabs, Jewish and Christians.
The 16th century Jaen Cathedral dominates the skyline, with the impressive architectural masterpiece of Andres de Vandelvira.
It’s said that the Holy Veil used by Saint Veronica to wash Jesus’ face remains inside.
Bernabe Soriano Street and Santiago Square are some of the best places to soak up Jaen’s local life.
Here you can find the hidden 1937 air-raid shelter beneath a church, as well as the city’s remarkable baths.
Jaen is home to one of Europe’s best-preserved Arab baths, which lies beneath a 16th-century palace now a cultural hub with several museums.
Just a short walk away is the Church of Santa Maria Magdalena, built on the site of a 9th-century mosque, considered one of Jaen’s oldest landmarks.
Andalucia is constantly praised for its gastronomic scene with its selection of tapas.
Jaen is no different. Except that ordering a drink still brings a free plate of food.
It’s a tradition that feels almost rebellious in modern Spain.
From rustic migas to simple bread topped with tomato and anchovy, the flavours hit your tongue and not your wallet.
The city now boasts four Michelin-starred restaurants as well, for those looking for something more refined.
It’s easy to say that Jaen has been firmly placed on the foodie map.
Jaen may leave you wondering how it has stayed under the radar for so long.
Come for the views and the food, stay for the atmosphere.
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