It’s time to visit Peñiscola, the little-known island that’s not an actually an island, writes Eugene Costello.
AT first glance, you might think it’s one of Andalucia’s famous ‘Pueblos Blancos’.
Were you to go one step further and describe it as Spain’s answer to Mont St Michel in Normandy, France, no one would laugh you out of the room.
But in fact it’s a little-known, little-visited village with a hilltop fortress on the ‘Orange Blossom Coast’ (the Costa Azahar) north of Valencia.
Peñiscola is a rocky gem whose name – ‘almost an island’ – relates to its geographic position, jutting out at the end of a peninsula, making it effectively a tidal island, all but surrounded by the Mediterranean, with 5km of glorious sandy beaches.
The beaches of the Costa Brava to the north and Valencia to the south are as packed as Eastbourne on an August bank holiday by comparison; Peñíscola is known for being calmer and especially family-friendly.
But there is culture and gastronomy packed mightily into this pocket-sized resort. The old town lies within the walled citadel: steep cobbled lanes and a myriad of alleys leading to who knows where, all whitewashed and brightened by colourful doors and window shutters. It’s reminiscent of a Greek island.
First, the castle. It was gifted to the Knights Templar by King Jaime I in 1294, and they set about destroying the remnants of a Moorish castle that had dominated the Arabic-style town of steep, winding streets and alleys, still cobbled to this day. The new castle was built along the lines of overseas fortresses they had seen on the Crusades.
A century later, it would become forever associated with Papa Luna, an Aragonese nobleman named Pope Benedict XIII in 1394. Following the Great Schism, he lost the papal role to another, but refused to accept it, and lived here as a sort of Vatican-in-exile until he died at the age of 95. He left his mark on the castle, with the grandiloquently named Hall of the Conclave, the Basilica of the Virgin Mary and the Magi, and the Pontifical Halls.
The town breathes and sighs history. Within the walled citadel, don’t miss the beautiful fortress gardens, with an impressive stone arch leading to them. As you trudge up through the winding streets to the castle, you’ll see any number of arts and crafts shops, bars and restaurants. Tarry a while; the castle’s not going anywhere.
Peñíscola didn’t just quietly retire into picturesque seaside obscurity – oh no, Hollywood came knocking and decided to redecorate. For Anthony Mann’s 1960 epic El Cid, the old castle got a glow-up and a set of dramatic sea-facing ramparts were added, because apparently the real thing just wasn’t quite cinematic enough.
Charlton Heston and Sophia Loren wandered about the Patio de Armas looking suitably heroic, while Peñiscola gamely stood in for Valencia, which had the misfortune of being deemed both too built-up and, rather damningly, not seaside enough to play itself. The best part? The town council liked the fake ramparts so much they just… kept them. As you do.
Fast-forward a few decades, and Peñiscola is still happily typecasting itself — this time as Meereen in season six of Game of Thrones. Sure, a lot of that city is CGI wizardry, but if you look closely, you’ll spot Tyrion and Varys strolling through very real streets like Paseo de Ronda and Plaza Santa María, probably wondering why the dragons are conspicuously absent.
The whole thing gave the local tourism folks a bright idea: why not lean into it? Enter the ‘Peñiscola de Cine’ tour, where fans can roam around ticking off filming locations and pretending they, too, are part of the drama.
And because Peñiscola clearly isn’t done basking in the cinematic limelight, it now hosts an annual comedy film festival, drawing in talent from near and far. Comedy, it turns out, is very much its thing — this is, after all, where Luis Berlanga filmed his classic Calabuch. Not bad for a town that once got cast simply for being in the right place by the sea.
Don’t miss out on the lighthouse. An octagonal column of 30 metres, it stands next to the historic Papa Luna Castle within the walls of the citadel. It has guided ships along the Costa del Azahar since its inauguration in 1899. It affords wonderful views out to see and of the castle. A must-visit.
If thoughts turn to pre-dinner cocktails and food, you’ll be glad if you plumped for a stay at the Hotel Palladium. A ten-minute stroll along the horseshoe-shaped main beach, Playa Sur, will bring you to this luxury hotel. Four stars, but with five-star facilities.
Take an aperitif at the SkyBar, with a hot tub and views out to the Mediterranean as well as the old town and castle; it’s the perfect spot to unwind, ideally in the hot tub with bubbles both in your glass and all around you.
Remember Dean Martin’s sage advice: Martinis are like breasts on women. One is not enough and three is too many. So after your second, head down to the restaurant El Mercat.
On the first night, we had entraña de ternera, poco hecha (medium-rare skirt steak, flash-fried to order) and an especially good veal stroganoff, with tender cuts of meat and portobello mushrooms in a rich gravy, served with buttered baby carrots and dauphinois potatoes.
The following night, we plumped for pork cheeks in a port wine reduction. The reward was a mountain of desserts, including delicious homemade ice cream and crema catalana.
For more pampering, check out the indoor heated pool (there is an outdoor one as well), with instruments of thalassotherapy to soothe sore necks, scalps and backs. Throw in a Turkish bath, Finnish sauna and whirlpools, and you’ll be as prepared as a turkey is for Christmas.
From the hotel it’s 30 seconds to the main beach, Playa Sur. Or, for something different, follow the river disgorging onto the beach backwards to a charming little park. This runs along the banks of the river Sequia del Rei, criss-crossed by ornamental wooden bridges that would not look out of place in a Japanese water garden, or in Monet’s gardens at Giverny near Paris.
Right beside the park is a Chinese bazaar called Bazar Jun, where they sell beautiful tablecloths on a roll in vibrant colours and patterns. I bought a couple of metres to bring home for my chocolate labrador, Gili.
After all, she deserved to have had a couple of nights in enchanting Peñíscola.
As does everybody, in fact…
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Palladium has double rooms from 120€ in a deluxe room, rising to 225€, based on 2 people sharing. Visit www.palladiumhotelgroup.com
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