Twin peaks: Baeza and Ubeda, at the pinnacle of Spain’s Renaissance attractions

ONE of the delights of Spain is visiting its unspoilt interior where historic buildings are often set in a landscape virtually unchanged for centuries.

While the coastal regions of Andalucia and Valencia are well known and the famous cities of Sevilla, Cordoba and Granada too, a trip inland to the unfashionable province of Jaen is well worth the effort.

For lovers of history, architecture, and timeless beauty, it is full of hidden treasures. Among its crown jewels are the twin towns of Baeza and Ubeda, just five miles apart, which together have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2003.

Their streets, squares, and palaces have seen centuries of art, culture, and wealth – and they remain surprisingly unspoiled by mass tourism.

Baeza feels like a slice of Italy transplanted to southern Spain. Its wealth in the 1500s came from the booming textile trade, and with riches came a taste for Renaissance architecture.

The town’s University Building (1533) is a shining example of this style, while the Cathedral of the Blessed Virgin and the Nativity showcases exquisite plateresque details – a Spanish tradition of ornate decoration inspired by silversmith work.

Wandering Baeza, you’ll stumble across the Fountain of the Lions, one of the town’s oldest monuments. Its sculpted lions pay homage to local legend, with carvings said to depict Hannibal’s wife, the Carthaginian general famous for marching elephants on Rome. Every corner of Baeza exudes charm: sunlit squares, stone-paved streets, and hidden courtyards make it a photographer’s dream.

Just a short drive away, Ubeda claims to be even older than Baeza, and some historians suggest it is one of the oldest continuous settlements in western Europe. Conquered by the Romans in 206 BC, it became the colony of Betula. During the early Middle Ages, while England was under Norman rule, Ubeda thrived as a Muslim community – until 1212, when Christian crusaders brutally seized the city.

The 16th century brought new prosperity as aristocrats flocked to Ubeda, commissioning grand stone and marble buildings that define the town’s character today. Its Vazquez de Molina Square is monumental, lined with Renaissance palaces, while the Water Synagogue remains a remarkable remnant of Ubeda’s medieval Jewish heritage, complete with ritual baths and a Women’s Gallery.

And if you’ve ever heard the Spanish phrase andar por los cerros de Ubeda (‘to wander around the hills of Ubeda’), you’ll know the town even lent its name to a saying about going off at a tangent. The Parador of Ubeda, once a palace of a high-ranking churchman, offers visitors a chance to stay inside this Renaissance masterpiece.

Getting there

By car, the easiest route from Granada is the A44 motorway, followed by the A316 road, which winds through both Baeza and Ubeda. Rail travellers can alight at Linares-Baeza station, just a 20-minute taxi ride from Baeza (taxis are available right outside). Buses are less convenient: while services run from Malaga, they are slow, often requiring one or two changes.

For anyone seeking a journey through history, culture, and Renaissance splendour – all without the crowds of Sevilla or Granada – the twin jewels of Baeza and Ubeda are Andalucia at its most enchanting.

Quick Guide: Baeza & Ubeda

Top Sights in Baeza:

• University Building (1533): Stunning Renaissance architecture and a must for history buffs
  
• Cathedral of the Blessed Virgin and the Nativity: Plateresque details and centuries of history in one magnificent building
  
• Fountain of the Lions: One of Spain’s oldest fountains, with sculpted lions said to depict Hannibal’s wife
  
• Plaza del Populo: Picturesque square perfect for cafés and people-watching
  
• Palacio de Jabalquinto: A Gothic-Renaissance gem with intricate stonework
  

Top Sights in Ubeda:

• Vazquez de Molina Square: A monumental Renaissance plaza surrounded by palaces
  
• Parador of Ubeda: Sleep like a 16th-century aristocrat in this former churchman’s palace
  
• Water Synagogue: Medieval Jewish architecture, including ritual baths and a Women’s Gallery
  
• Palacio del Deán Ortega: A stunning example of Renaissance urban palace design
  

Local Tips:

• Both towns are highly walkable – explore the narrow streets on foot
  
• Stop by local artisan shops for ceramics, lace, and olive oil
  
• Don’t miss a coffee or tapas in a sunny plaza – the perfect way to soak up the atmosphere
  

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