Dilip Kuner
MARBELLA’S name has long conjured visions of a picture-perfect city of gleaming yachts, designer boutiques and luxury hotels… all with an endless stream of celebrity sightings.
This undeniably glamorous image still pulls in a certain crowd – but a deeper, more compelling story starts to unfold for anyone willing to look beyond the obvious.
As we approach the summer, this ‘sun-drenched jewel’ (as it likes to call itself) offers an experience that’s richer and more nuanced than its reputation might first suggest.
Just step away from those buzzing marinas and the thrum of high-octane luxury, and you’ll stumble upon a Marbella that time itself seems to have preserved.
The Casco Historico, the old town, is a labyrinth of cobbled streets, their 16th-century origins, some even older, etched into every ancient wall.
Hidden along narrow alleys you will find modern art galleries, brimming with fresh, contemporary creations, sitting comfortably alongside traditional tapas bars, always busy with locals, despite the summer tourist hordes.
Hip boutiques, like long-established Deja Vu, and artisan ice cream parlours invite you for a leisurely exploration – it’s like a treasure hunt for unique finds.
At the heart of this historical haven, you’ll find the Plaza de los Naranjos, aptly named for its fragrant orange trees, which provide a colourful backdrop for countless selfies.
This charming square pulses with life as locals and tourists mingle to enjoy its attractions.
The 16th-century town hall dominates, an immovable witness to centuries of change. While the immediate vicinity might lean towards the premium side (price-wise), the sheer immersion in this historical ambiance is priceless.
For a moment of quiet reflection, the cool stone walls of the Ermita De Santiago, originally a mosque, offer a peaceful sanctuary that feels like it’s pulled straight from a bygone era.
Just around the corner, the Church of Our Lady of the Incarnation, dating back to 1618, with a stunning Baroque entrance, houses an organ of remarkable complexity – we’re talking 5,000 pipes of pewter, copper, and wood, all played with four manual keyboards.
It’s quite the marvel!
Marbella’s historical roots actually stretch back much, much further. Indeed to Roman times.
Take a trip to the ancient Roman baths in Guadalmina, powerful remnants of a sophisticated civilization, standing proudly right next to an 18th-century defensive tower.
The intriguing 6th-century Visigothic church just along the beach in nearby San Pedro offers a fascinating glimpse into the region’s diverse religious past.
The Romans first settled here way back in 1 AD, and their legacy remains woven into the fabric of the town.
Look closely, and you’ll even find a 1st-century Roman bridge embedded within the Hotel Puente Romano, and the villa site at Rio Verde nearby boasts a magnificent mosaic, recently restored after thieves stole its central Medusa head motif.
While not quite as old, the history sister hotel, Marbella Club, is the very epitome of old world glamour, its mature gardens first planted back in the 1950s and its walls having put up everyone from Elizabeth Taylor to Bridget Bardot.
Set up by the German aristocrat Alfonso Hohenlohe (more on whom later), this was THE place for the rich and famous to come and luxuriate in the 1960s. There is nowhere better to get a feel for it than in its historic bar garden in the heart of summer.
Should the allure of history wane, Marbella’s public gardens step in to provide a verdant embrace.
La Constitucion Park and the Alameda Gardens right in the city centre offer a refreshing escape from the sun’s warm embrace, shaded as they are by verdant trees, including the emblematic Jacarandas, their purple blossom lighting up the sky in late Spring.
These are the places where locals often gather, especially during feria – though I’m afraid you’ve just missed it; it wrapped up on Sunday! – while cafes and bars offer the perfect spot for a refreshing drink.
Yet, perhaps Marbella’s most enduring charm lies along its 27 kilometres of stunning coastline. From the pristine sandy beaches and gentle dunes of Artola (watch out for the nudists at its western end, while the Cabopino end is popular with families) and Elviria to the distinctly palm-lined paradise of central Marbella, the shore caters to every whim. Whether you’re seeking a languid day soaking up the sun, a refreshing dip in the crystal-clear waters, an invigorating beach yoga session or the lively DJ sets in the many beach clubs, the local shores offer a perfect escape.
For those who crave a touch of unapologetic extravagance, Puerto Banus, Marbella’s famously glamorous district, remains quite the spectacle. Bookmarking one end of the ‘millionaire’s row’ of the Golden Mile, Banus is where the ‘anything goes’ philosophy of Marbella really takes hold. From jubilant hen parties celebrating the final throes of ‘freedom’ for the bride, to members of the ‘1% club’ disembarking from superyachts and Ferraris, the people-watching here is a sport in itself, easily rivalling the vibrancy of Mayfair or Malibu.
Luxury brands line every thoroughfare, and private jet brokers cater to the absolute pinnacle of high-flying aspirations. Banus is an unashamed melting pot for the rich, the famous, and those ‘Marbella Love Islanders’ wannabes, who, clad head-to-toe in designer attire, flow through the port, especially around exclusive nightclubs like Le Suite and Roberto Cavalli.
Just be warned, a round of drinks here could easily gobble up your weekly budget – a small price to pay, perhaps, for mingling with Marbella’s elite.
The Golden Mile itself stands as a testament to Marbella’s lasting appeal to the world’s most influential figures.
Lord Alan Sugar, Simon Cowell, and members of the Saudi Arabian royal family have long kept villas here. More recently, Spotify owner Daniel Ek (and his deputy) have joined their esteemed ranks, while Eva Longoria, Novak Djokovic, and footballer Eden Hazard also now call Marbella home.
Even world leaders find themselves drawn to its magnetic charm; David Cameron, Tony Blair, and Michelle Obama have all visited in the past decade, and former Spanish Prime Minister Jose Maria Aznar still maintains a villa in Guadalmina.
Discovered
Marbella’s status as a grand resort traces its origins back to 1946, when German Prince Maximilian de Hohenlohe-Langenburg and his aforementioned son Alfonso ‘discovered’ it quite serendipitously during a Rolls Royce breakdown.
Alfonso was so captivated that he bought land and built a house, later selling plots to friends including the Rothschilds and Thyssens and other members of the jet set like Ava Gardner and Laurence Olivier.
The Marbella Club, which remains a stalwart on the Golden Mile, hosts many luminaries, including Lady Gaga and Lenny Kravitz, while its equally ritzy neighbour, the Puente Romano, has welcomed a string of A-listers including Robert de Niro, Tyson Fury, and James Hunt, who ended up living nearby.
And if the rich tapestry of culture, the pristine beaches, and the thriving social scene aren’t quite enough to tempt you to make Marbella your own, then the blossoming culinary scene surely will. Marbella is home to a notable collection of Michelin-starred restaurants, making it an essential pilgrimage for any self-proclaimed ‘foodie’.
While local chef Dani Garcia controversially handed back his three Michelin stars just a few days after winning them a couple of years ago, a couple of joints have two.
They include Marcos Granda’s Skina, which has two Michelin Stars and is tipped for a third this year.
Then there’s Messina, holding one Michelin Star, where Chef Mauricio Giovanini crafts incredibly creative dishes with a global influence.
Another must-visit is Nintai, also with one Michelin Star, offering an exquisite Japanese omakase experience, masterfully prepared right before your eyes.
And adding to Marbella’s stellar lineup is BACK, which also proudly holds one Michelin Star, presenting a modern, bistro-style approach to Andalusian cuisine under the expert guidance of Chef David Olivas.
With a vibrant nightlife, a blossoming arts scene, and some of the finest food in the entire region, Marbella lives up to its many names. So, the next time its name pops up, just remember – it’s far, far more than simply a playground for the rich and famous.
It’s a dynamic weave of history, culture, natural beauty, and an irresistible culinary landscape.
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