9 Sep, 2024 @ 11:35
3 mins read

Kings of the wild frontier: Glamping in Portugal’s Algarve

THE Twin Springs glamping estate near Andalucia and just half an hour from the Algarve will help you find your inner native American, writes Jon Clarke.

As the sun finally sets on a beautiful Alentejo evening you start to understand the many references to native Indian tribes.

This really is the true Wild West of Europe, a frontier region, hardly developed with one of the lowest population densities on the continent.

So the stunning new off-grid hideout Twin Springs, near Almodovar, in inland Portugal, is a welcome luxury escape to enjoy the incredible peace and quiet of the region.

Set in a hidden valley beside a bubbling brook, the eco-friendly estate gets its name from the two freshwater springs that fill its natural pools and provide its drinking water.

Entirely surrounded by nature, with not another building in sight, the noises come care of the breezes, the birds (I saw bee-eaters, eagles and storks) and the braying of a distant donkey.

And then there is the local shepherd, who passes a few times a week, the sheep bells alerting his arrival, while the continual trickling of water and wind chimes adds to the overriding sense of peace.

Think Spaghetti Westerns, minus the shooting. This is the sort of place that might have inspired Sergio Leone and you expect Lee Van Cleef to saunter in, his spurs clicking and his gun in the holster at any moment.

The entirely natural wooden reception area and open kitchen/dining area, named ‘Last Chance Saloon’, accentuates the mood, but an honesty bar is thankfully well stocked with cold drinks, including wine and beer, and there is complimentary tea and coffee for guests. 

The giant four-metre bell tents (named Navajo, Apache and Cherokee, appropriately) sleep two in complete comfort, while there are additional smaller tents for children to sleep in, or simply play.

Each of the three tents comfortably fits a double bed (which can be divided) as well as smaller single beds for children, if needed.

They are full of rugs, throws and cushions keeping with the native American theme, while both swimming and bath towels are provided. 

But the communal areas and, particularly, bathroom and toilet blocks are what turns this into a genuine ‘glamping’ resort and really makes this a must-stay for anyone looking to visit this largely unknown part of Portugal.

The brainchild of British expats Pauline and Sid Oliviera, they starred in TV programme, A New Life in the Sun, this year, as they juggled lives between Spain, Gibraltar and Portugal, to prepare and launch the retreat.

Having run hairdressing businesses and radio stations from London to Gibraltar the pair have creativity and talent coming out of their ears, not to mention drive.

A former Olive Press staffer, Pauline – who lived for many years near Ronda – explains: “We fell in love with this place the minute we found it. We had been wanting to do an eco-retreat like this in the Serrania de Ronda for years, but it never quite happened.

“This has long been our dream and, like us, our guests love being at one with nature and being able to get away from the hustle and bustle of life.”

There was certainly a definitive ‘wow factor’ as we weaved our way down the narrow track towards the retreat, some ten minutes from Almodovar and just five from the sleepy Portuguese villages of Gomes Aires and Santa Clara-a-Nova.

The sense of freedom and space was the main takeaway, while having a base to explore this interesting region of Portugal was invaluable… the charming provincial city of Beja being just 45 minutes away and Evora a little bit further. The Vale do Guadiana national park is nearby, as is the Santa Clara lake district.

Even better are the legendary curries that Sid can knock up on request for guests, plus a range of other dishes, such as a Sunday roast. They can also arrange your shopping, laundry and nearby trips.

Best of all though was at night, eating dinner as the sun set and then – with zero light pollution – seeing the amazing wide open sky full of stars come out.

It was almost tempting to scrap the glamping tent altogether and sleep outdoors. But where then would be the glamour!


For the months of September and October, Sid and Pauline are offering Olive Press readers a special three nights for the price of two deal, plus an optional free curry. Visit www.twinspringsglamping.com or email pauline.olivera@yahoo.com

Jon Clarke (Publisher & Editor)

Jon Clarke is a Londoner who worked at the Daily Mail and Mail on Sunday as an investigative journalist before moving permanently to Spain in 2003 where he helped set up the Olive Press. He is the author of three books; Costa Killer, Dining Secrets of Andalucia and My Search for Madeleine.

Do you have a story? Contact newsdesk@theolivepress.es

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