Spain’s underrated road trip through ‘raisin country’ in the Malaga mountains

ONE of Spain’s most overlooked yet rewarding road trips has recently been discovered in the rugged region of Axarquia, located east of Malaga city. 

The Ruta de la Pasa, or ‘Raisin Route’, is an unforgettable 62-kilometre loop that winds through a series of whitewashed Moorish villages – Moclinejo, Almachar, El Borge, Cutar, Comares, and Totalan.

Recently brought into the spotlight by a feature in The Telegraph, this overlooked stretch of southern Spain offers a travel experience that far exceeds its humble nature.  

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Departing from Malaga city, coastal crowds are quickly left behind for steep, winding roads lined with terraced vineyards and paseros – traditional drying beds where Muscat grapes are sun-dried into the region’s famous raisins. 

The first stop, Moclinejo, offers a blend of rich history and quirky charm. 

Beyond its 16th-century church and sweeping views, the village enchants visitors with quaint attractions such as the Casita del Ratoncito Perez, a miniature house dedicated to Spain’s beloved tooth fairy figure, crafted by local artist Chari Ruiz. 

Tucked into a wall on Calle Sierra, the cottage pays tribute to the famous rodent who, according to tradition, collects children’s baby teeth while they sleep.

Further along, El Borge stands as the ‘raisin capital’ of Spain, producing some of the country’s finest Muscatel raisins. 

The village’s whitewashed houses sit at the foot of Cerro de Cutar, and its narrow streets are filled with the background sounds of daily life.

In September, the town comes alive during the Dia de la Pasa festival, celebrating the raisin harvest with music, dancing, and generous tastings of local delicacies.

Visitors can delve into the area’s storied past at the Galeria del Bandolero, a museum dedicated to the infamous 19th-century bandit Luis Muñoz Garcia, known as ‘El Bizco de El Borge.’ 

The museum houses over 1,300 artefacts, offering a glimpse into the region’s turbulent history.

For accommodation, the Hotel Posada del Bandolero provides a rustic retreat, with rooms named after legendary outlaws and a restaurant serving local platos. 

Dishes like goat ‘Bandolero’ style and sirloin with raisin sauce showcase the region’s culinary expertise.

Continuing the journey, the road ascends to Comares, dubbed ‘the balcony of Axarquia’ for its panoramic views stretching to the Mediterranean. 

The village’s Moorish roots are evident in its architecture and the remains of its ancient fortress.

Throughout the route, the landscape reveals the labour-intensive process of raisin production.

Farmers can be seen tending to the paseros, proof that age-old customs still exist in a world dominated by technology and change.

This dedication has earned the region recognition from the United Nations as a Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System.

As The Telegraph aptly noted, this route offers rewards for those brave enough to venture off the beaten path. 

For those seeking an authentic Andalucian experience, the Raisin Route delivers in spades.